Rivers Rise and Plans Change

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The Rise Up Ride 2022: Days 53-72

Rivers Rise and Plans Change 

Date: 1 July 2022

Start Location: Skagway, AK 

End Location: Moose Creek, Yukon 

Distance/mode:  552 km bicycle/van

Latitude: 63° 50′ N

In my original plan, I would have been finishing my paddle this Canada Day weekend, pulling up to the dock in Dawson City after kayaking and camping down the Yukon River from Whitehorse. But the climate seems to be changing and so did my plans last week when the water began rising after another year of record early snow melts. Trusted friends who know the region well advised against taking a risk on the Yukon right now with heaps of timber being flushed down river by roaring floodwaters, threatening Carmacks with evacuation, and possibly clogging the river with sweepers and strainers. Since I have time later this summer to float during more halcyon days in early August, and the option of the perfectly good alternative adventure pedaling my bicycle "downriver", I decided to pack everything on my bike and ride down the Yukon Highway to Dawson instead. I'm now resting my heels ahead of schedule in Moose Creek after six days riding and camping along the overland route from Whitehorse. 

Peter Heebink, my WarmShowers host at the end of Marsh Lake, is the founder and organizer of the annual Southern Lakes Yukon GranFondo. He invited me back to participate in this year's event on 18 June at McClintock Adventures along the headwaters of the Yukon River, and to bring up a team across the border. Cam, Sean, and I drove up from Sockeye Cycle in Skagway to compete (or at least complete), representing Alaska in this local (now international) race. Cam and I competed as a team and Sean rode solo, finishing his first 100-mile Century. It was a tough day with 174 km of hills, chipseal, winds, and gravel on the Tagish Road from Jake's Corner, down to Carcross, and back through Carcross Cutoff to Swan Haven. Only bicycle race I've ever competed in while carrying bear spray across my chest. 

After a day's rest sleeping in Peter's Wall Tent, and getting valuable advice from McClintock Adventures owner and Yukon expert Kirk Buckle, I began my ride north, stopping in Whitehorse for the night at the Beez Kneez Bakpakers Hostel and a visit to UpNorth Adventures to change my plans. I'll return here on August 4 to leave by kayak to scout the river to Dawson. 

Cycling is faster than paddling down the river, putting me ahead of schedule when I rolled into Beaver Creek last Sunday night. This wide spot in the Yukon Highway, the only food and lodging for two-days riding in either direction, is an oasis called the Beaver Creek Lodge. It's an old-style roadhouse, which used to lie about a day's horseback ride apart along this route. With my hotel booking only a two-day push from here and only beginning on 4 July, I decided to unpack my panniers and rent the Fireweed Cabin while resting and writing for a few days. One day has relaxed its way into the next sitting on the porch, swatting mosquitos, reading, watching some downloaded media, and watching the helicopters flying huge buckets of water to douse several lightning-sparked fires nearby. Maya, the owner, and her small crew of volunteers who keep the Lodge going this summer, cook hearty breakfasts and my daily fare of Moose Burger, one of the best hamburgers I've ever had, served with a barley soup and on homemade sourdough. After five nights of good food and rest, I'm rested, showered, laundered, and ready to get back out on the road after the long holiday weekend of traffic and crowded campgrounds. 

On Sunday I'll ride to the Klondike River Campground for one more night in the tent, finishing up my ride to town on Monday.  In Dawson I'll arrange for getting my bicycle and gear up to Inuvik, and buy the provisions I'll need to ride south from Tuktoyaktuk back to Dawson starting on 11 July. My flight to Inuvik leaves on Friday morning, so I will have four days to explore the town while taking up residence at the famed Eldorado Hotel.